Sinop (192 km northeast of Kastamonu) is one on the most beautiful natural harbours of the Black Sea. It was founded in the seventh century by Miletian colonists and was the birthplace of the third-century philosopher, Diogenes the Cynic. The town's citadel and the foundations of a temple dedicated to Serapis date from that period. The Archaeology Museum exhibits several beautiful golden icons and the 18th-century Aslan Torunlar Mansion Museum displays ethnographical artifacts. Other important monuments include the 13th-century Alaeddin Mosque and the Alaiye Medrese. Excellent fish restaurants along the charming fisherman's wharf serve tasty meals while brightly coloured boats bobbing in the water complete the picturesque setting. Sinop is also known for its traditional nautical wooden carvings. Seaside hotels and holiday villages provide accommodation in all price ranges. Some 35 km to the southwest, high in the mountains, lie the yaylas (mountain plateaus) of Guzfindık and Bozarmut. At an elevation of 1,350 meters, these green pastures with their summer residents offer a glimpse into a traditional way of life.

Gerze is situated on a peninsula 40 km east along the coast and is surrounded by parks and beaches. Farther along the coastal road, you arrive at Yakakent, a fishing village with clean, sandy beaches. Camgolu, a large forest which slopes to the sea, has camping sites, guest facilities and restaurants.

Turning inland, the road takes you to Bafra (30 km east of Yakakent) a town famous for its tobacco, caviar and thermal springs. Its 13th - century hamam and 15th-century mosque-medrese complex are sights worth seeing. Ikiztepe, 7 km northeast of Bafra is an archaeological site from the early Bronze Age that uncovers much of Black Sea regional history. The artifacts, including jewellery, which is especially important, can be seen in the Samsun museum.

Samsun (418 km northeast of Ankara) is a modern industrial city that has served as a major port for centuries. Products from all over the region are exported from this city, which annually hosts the Samsun Trade and Industrial Fair. Samsun found itself at the center of the Turkish War of Independence on May 19,1919, when Atatürk landed here to organise the defence of Anatolia. The Ataturk Museum houses many objects and documents relating to the war. An equestrian statue honouring the founder of the Republic stands in a prominent place in the city park. The 14th-century Pazar Mosque and the 19th-century Büyük Mosque reflect two different Turkish architectural styles and are interesting to compare. The Archaeology Museum not only displays the fends from Ikiztepe but also artifacts from Dündartepe and Amisos, as Samsun was known in ancient times.

The charming little port of Ünye (93 km east of Samsun) is one of the nicest holiday towns on the eastern Black Sea and justly boasts of its excellent beaches and camping facilities. Do not miss the extraordinary 18th century town hall. Within easy reach of Ünye is the beautiful Çamlik Beach.

After Ordu Fatsa (22 km east of Ünye), another holiday town on the road to Ordu, the ruins of the Byzantine Jason Church, now a museum, stand on the Çamburnu promontory. Legend has it that the Argonauts landed here on their quest for the Golden Fleece. Fish restaurants serving the finest tea found in the region dot the 50 km of scenic road to Ordu. Sea snails, a regional speciality, are particularly delicious at Yalıköy.

Returning from the Babylonian campaign, the survivors of "Xenophon's Ten Thousand" left Anatolia from Ordu in their retreat to Greece. Today, it is a beautiful port situated at the foot of a forested hill. In the Paşaoğlu Konak (mansion), now the Ethnographical Museum, see how a rich and influential 19th century family lived. Hazelnut production centres around Ordu and every September the town hosts the Golden Hazelnut Festival. Be sure to sample the delicious chocolate nut candy. It is worth spending some time at an 18th-century church, 2 km of town, and the pretty beach of Güzelyalı is worth visiting. 58 km further south, at an altitude of 1,250 meters, lies the yayla (plateau) of Çambasi offering beautiful mountain views. The yayla of Keyfalan, at 2,000 meters, is another popular summer destination for local residents.

The ruins of a Byzantine fortress offer a wonderful panorama of Giresun. It was from this city, ancient Cerasos, that the Roman general Lucullus exported the first cherry trees to Europe. An 18th century church (now a museum) makes a short visit worthwhile. Outside of town, Giresun Adası (Giresun Island) is said to have once belonged to the Amazons. A ruined temple supports this theory. The Aksu Art and Culture Festival is a yearly event in May. To get off the beaten track, take an excursion to the high mountain yaylas of Bektaş or Kümbet.

Between Giresun and Trabzon, are the quaint coastal towns of Keşap, Tirebolu, Görele, Vakfıkebir and Akçaabat squeezed between wooded mountains and the Black Sea waters. Stop at Görele for delicious, submarine-shaped meat and cheese 'pitas', at Vakfıkebir for the best butter and at Akçaabat to sample the best köfte (meat rolls).

Trabzon, the major city of the region, was founded in the 7th century B.C. by Miletian colonists, and was later at the center of the Comnene Empire established after the fall of Byzantine Istanbul. The exiled Byzantine court ruled until 1461 when the Ottomans conquered the area. The jewel of Trabzon's monuments is the restored 13th-century Byzantine church, used for centuries as a mosque and now as the Ayasofya Museum. Splendid frescoes, some of the finest examples of Byzantine painting, cover every one of the interior church walls. Several other churches were converted to mosques, two becoming the Fatih Mosque and the Yeni Cuma Mosque. The Ottoman Gülbahar Mosque, a typical provincial style building, is set in a lovely tea garden. Wooden houses fill the old quarter nestled in the ancient fortifications, which still retain the spirit of a medieval town. The house in which Atatürk stayed has been made into a museum.

On the hills above Trabzon, Boztepe Park offers a beautiful view of the city and coastline. On the western slopes of Boztepe Hill stands the Irene Tower, built by Empress Irene of Trabzon in 1340. Just east of the city, the village of Sürmene has an impressive 19th-century mansion known as the Kastel. Near Trabzon, south of Akçaabat, the lovely highland meadows of Karadağ, Hıdırnebi and Erikbeli are ideal for hiking and picnics. The road inland from Trabzon winds through spectacular mountain landscape before reaching the Zigana Tunnel, the longest in Turkey. Nearby Hamsiköy is a charming mountain village, that has gained a national reputation for its excellent cuisine (including the best rice pudding), and is also conveniently near the Zigana Ski Center. The beautiful meadows and highland pastures of Gürgenağaç Yaylası, Kirazlı Yaylası and Şolma Yaylası are ideal sites for outdoor activities. The traditional Kadırga Festival celebrates the annual summer migration to the high mountain pastures.

Altindere National Park provides a magnificent setting for the 14th century Sümela Monastery, perched high on a cliff face 270 meters above a deep gorge. Surrounded by the ruins of the monks' quarters, is a church covered inside and out with brilliant frescoes. Southeast of Trabzon is lake Uzungöl, a lovely alpine lake surrounded by mountains and meadows, excellent for camping, hiking and fishing. The restaurants there also make it the best place for eating river trout.

Gümüşhane (88 km east of Trabzon), on the ancient trade route between Trabzon and Iran was once of considerable importance. Many elegant buildings still remain. Set amid fruit groves and wild roses, the town is a natural stopping point between Trabzon and Erzurum. Take the opportunity to try the local rosehip syrup and marmalade.

Bayburt (77 km from Gümüşhane), is situated on the banks of the Coruh River and lies on what was once known as the Silk Road. Marco Polo and the inveterate Turkish traveller Evliya Çelebi both passed through this city. The remains of a Byzantine castle, as well as major mosques, Turkish baths and fascinating carved tombstones are among the significant sites. Two of the most important monuments in Bayburt are Ulu Mosque (18th century) and the Clock Tower in the city center which dates from the republican period. Also worth seeing are the twin mauseoleums of Şehit Osman and his sister which are situated on the hillsides at the southern entrance to the city. Osman Park on the Çoruh River has wonderful scenery and is a lovely place to relax.

Rize (75 km east of Trabzon) is built on a mountain slope covered with tea bushes that look like puffy green pillows. Be sure to see this typical Black Sea city's 16th-century Islam Paşa Mosque and the remains of a Genoese castle. From Ziraat Park you can take in a splendid panorama of the whole area. A lightweight summer cloth of good quality and printed with colorful patterns comes from the Rize area. During the Summer Tea Festival you can purchase the best blend of Black Sea tea. Mehmet Mataracı Mansion is now an Atatürk Museum that displays his personal belongings as well as ethnographical artifacts from the region.

Turning inland after Ardeşen off the road going east from Rize, you come to the beautiful little town of Çamlıhemşin straddling a rushing stream. Nearby is the Fırtına Vadisi (Valley of Storms) - ideal for canoeing, and the beautiful Zir Castle, and stone bridges from Byzantine times. After walking around Ayder's rolling meadows, you can relax in one of the many hot springs. For those who like mountain climbing, this is the best starting point for scaling theKaçkar Mountains. This emerald range is one of the best and the most challenging for climbers in Turkey. The whole of the Kaçkar Range constitutes the beautiful Kaçkar Dağlari National Park. In the mountains south of Rize, Anzer village offers the world-famous and nutritious Anzer honey and is a nice area for hiking and for its botany. Ikizdere Canyon, between Anzer and İkizdere Plateaus, is a great spot for hang-gliding. At the same time you get a bird's-eye view of the area. Near Rize, the towns of Çayeli, Pazar, Ardeşen, Of and Fındıklı all enjoy a subtropical climate, lush green settings and boast traditional chalets. The Çamburnu coast is covered with golden pine trees where many species of migrating birds stop and it is a lovely area for resting and picture taking.

Hopa, an attractive town at the foot of a forested mountain, is the last port before the Turkish-Georgian border. The international boundary actually divides the village of Sarp. 27 km northeast of the town of Borçka on the way to Artvin there is the wonderful alpine lake of Karagöl, with various pine trees, as well as other flora and fauna. The road to Artvin traverses the Cankurtaran mountain pass, where verdant landscape changes to barren rocks. Hatilla Valley National Park, about 25 km in length, is 10 km from Artvin, between the confluence of the Çoruh River and the Hatilla stream in the east, and Mt. Nathali (2,923 m) in the west. Canyons with sheer cliffs and vertical drops can be seen throughout the park. Both Mediterranean and Black Sea flora flourish together in the park along with bears, deer, wolves, foxes and eagles. Special houses on top of wooden stilts are home to the park bees who produce the famous regional honey.

A winding drive midway up a mountainside takes you to Artvin, the capital of the province. At the foot of the escarpment, a ruined 16th-century castle crowns a rocky outcrop. Artvin is a charming city with beautiful old Turkish houses, typical of the region. The area's mild climate makes summer visits delightfully refreshing and every June, crowds of tourists, as well as brightly-clad locals, throng to the Kafkasör festival, where the spectacle of fighting bulls highlights the celebration. The adventurous might like to attempt white-water rafting on the wild, romantic Çoruh river.

During the Middle Ages the Artvin area came under Georgian sovereignty, which makes it the best place for touring remains of the Georgian past. Its wonderfully scenic roads lead to the ruined churches and settlements that stand as a legacy of this period. The best-preserved of these are at Barhal and Işhan, in the majestic Kaçkar Mountains. Barhal also offers some of the best country horseback riding. Several other churches in Bağbaşı and Çamliyamaç are just off the road to Erzurum, passing by the Tortum Waterfalls and the pristine Tortum Lake. Other Georgian churches and settlements near Yusufeli are Dörtkilise, Köprügören, and Tekkale. Yusufeli itself boasts wonderful possibilities for nature lovers and hiking at 4000 meters. East of Artvin is the former Georgian capital Ardanuç, with its famous castle, which overlooks the longest canyon in the region.

55 km east of Artvin is Şavşat, an alpine village surrounded by meadows of wild flowers and butterflies, rushing streams and quaint chalets. The local womens' organisation has established a training center for weaving in an attempt to keep the indigenous carpet and kilim traditions alive. Karagöl - Sahara National Park, 17 km from Şavşat on the way to Ardahan, has one of the most beautiful Karagöl alpine lakes as well as the widely-known Sahara plateau. The lake is 45 km northeast of Şavşat via Veliköy Village, another typical authentic village. The area around the lake is covered with a variety of pine trees and also has picnic facilities. Wildlife, including bears, is plentiful. The Sahara plateau itself is also covered with beautiful mineral and fresh springs. On the plateau is Kocabey Kışlağı Village where you can see traditional wooden houses with their friendly residents. Another important plateau and popular summer residence in the region is Bilbilan whose people are also exceptionally welcoming and helpful. Generally, in all the national parks you can see wonderful examples of birds and butterflies.

The Monastery of the Black Virgin

The enormous seven-story monastery is perched on a ledge halfway between heaven and the earth on a 1,200 foot sheer rock face, far in the depths of an uninhabited forest valley. The present buildings probably date from the 12th century; frescoes that once covered every surface come in three layers dating from 1710, 1740 and 1860. The monastery is in a vandalized state, but no degree of ruin seems enough to detract from the unforgettable effect of the site.

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